Events Organized By Adventure and Recreational Club IIUM

Zon Mendaki Rekreasi IPT

INTRODUCTION

Youth are the most precious treasure and resource of the nation. Their development is of paramount importance in nation building because the youth of today will be the future leaders and workers of this country.

To be good leaders and workers, youth must be equipped with both positive and productive nature. They must be fully equipped in term of mental, physical and spiritual. Sport climbing avails a practical environment for such ambitions.

It is an excellent outdoor and indoor activity that will benefit the youth. This type of activity will help to develop strong, brave and ambitious people. This is so because a climber must be physically fit in order to climb. They must be brave and confident to overcome the fear of height. They must also have strong determination and drive to overcome hardship in order to get to the top.

There are evidences that sport climbing is suitable to a large portion of our community. It is equally suitable for females and males. It is also one of the programs under Rakan Muda of the Ministry of Youths and Sport.

As such, to fulfil this noble inspiration, Adventure and Recreational Club of International Islamic University Malaysia takes the initiative to come out with this project to set up a centre for wall climbing for IPTA/IPTS and the district of Gombak.

HISTORY OF ROCK CLIMBING

Generally before 19th Century, people did not climb for fun. They climbed out of necessity e.g. herding animals up to mountain pastures or crossing mountain passes to get to the other side. Climbing as recreation probably began in the last quarter of the 19th Century in England and Europe where the upper class took an interest in hill walking or mountaineering. Rock climbing was part of this. Soon, many big mountains in Europe were conquered. Climbing in the Alps also involved trekking to the foot of the mountain and climbing on snow and ice as well. These were the beginning of an early alpine climbing.

From the 1920's to 1950's, more climbers chose to specialise on only rock cliffs. They began to develop special rock climbing equipment and techniques enabling them to climb safer as well as to climb routes thought to be impossible. In 1950's to 1960's, many spectacular big walls in European Alps and in Yosemite USA were climbed for the first time.

At first, aid-climbing techniques were extensively used to scale these seemingly blank big walls. But in 1970's, aid-climbing devices was tabooed in many climbing areas throughout the world because it was considered to be environmentally undesirable and not a sporting way of climbing. Environmentally undesirable because the extensive practice of hammering in pitons and bolts damages the rock. Not sporting because by bolting and hanging on anchors, then, even smooth rocks can be climbed. Thus nothing will be impossible and this takes the challenge out of climbing.

From 1970's free climbing was considered as the acceptable way to rock climbing. Free climbing means a climber only climbs with his hands and feet using the natural rock features as hold and do not use any artificial aid such as pulling on the anchors nor the rope. In the event of fall, his climbing partner who is anchored to the rock cliff and belaying him with the rope will prevent him from falling to the ground. Often there are misconceptions between the term 'free climbing' and 'solo climbing'. A solo climber is one who climbs alone and often without a rope. He is thus limited only by his own climbing ability and not that of his partner. This way he climbs faster but he cannot afford to make any mistake. So solo climbing is for the dare experts.

Since 1980's, the trend in rock climbing has been on techniques, strategy and difficulty rather than on long epic big wall climbs of the 1970's. The present emphasis is on how the climb was done - was it a direct route or was there numerous traverses; was it done without bolting or was the route bolted; was it climbed clean or were there falls along the way up; etc. The spectacular big wall climbs were getting out of fashion. It is now replaced by the short intensely demanding climbs that require gymnastic agility, iron grip and nerves of steel.

SPORT CLIMBING

In recreational climbing, although there are ethics and acceptable methods, there is no officially written rules and regulation as compared to other competitive sports. Rock climbing started off as a recreational sport i.e. the climber versus mountain or rock cliff and not directly with each other.

However, from the 1960's in USSR and Eastern European countries, speed-climbing competition began, thus marking the beginning of competitive climbing (sports climbing). Modern sports climbing began in the 1980's with the evolution of competition rules and regulations as well as the advent of the artificial climbing wall. Soon there were national and international competitions in Europe and USA. In 1989, the first World Cup series began in Europe and by 1991 there was the World Championship Series.

In 1987, an international body controlling climbing competition was formed. It is the International Committee for Climbing Competition (CICE) which is actually a sub-committee of Union of International Alpine Association - the international body governing mountaineering.

Sport climbing has spread to Asia. In 1992, the First Asian Championship was held in Korea. Now most of the South East Asian countries have sports climbing teams. For example, during the Singapore National Climbing Competition in 1993, climbers from Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, Philippines and Singapore took part. At present, the best sports climbers in South East Asia are the Indonesians.

Very soon sports climbing will be an Olympic sport. It will be a full Olympic sport in the year 2000. Therefore, sport climbing is certainly the fastest growing sport in the world.

Sport climbing is a very high performance sport. To be good at, it requires an exceptional level of fitness, agility and dedication. World-class climbers climb almost daily to keep in top form and constantly in order to stretch the limit of human possibilities.

Sport climbing is most beneficial to the public, especially to the youth, for it develops fitness and strength, courage and determination, teamwork and co-operation, planning and problem solving. Sport climbing is for everyone who enjoys physical and challenging type of activity.

THE OBJECTIVES

The objectives of this project are :

1. As one of the program under Rakan Muda Sektor IPT, Ministry of Youth and Sports.

IIUM will be working hand-in-hand with the ministry to provide the youth with a sport climbing facility as a channel for them to practise a healthy lifestyle.

2. To expose and promulgate sport climbing among IPTA/IPTS students and Gombak community.

Sport climbing is very popular internationally, but its popularity is not commendable in our country. A climbing centre could serve as a mean to expose and promulgate sport climbing especially at IPTA/IPTS level and the district of Gombak.

3. To promote and develop the talent and skills in climbing.

There is no such facility yet in the area. With the existence of the artificial wall climbing here, the youth can properly train and develop their skills. Indirectly, they are kept away from unhealthy social problems.

4. To expose the youth to technical, managerial and organisational skills in recreational activities.

This is one of the aspects we value very much. The youth will directly be exposed to the skills throughout various activities and competitions organised by the club.

STRATEGIC ANALYSIS

Industry structure

1) Islamic point of view

As the tradition of this club, being an organisation under Islamic oriented university, we can project an image of Islamic recreation, in line with the principles of the Syariah. The club intends to promote a fact that Islam does not restraint its believers in indulging with recreational activities.

2) View point of the club

The club is recognised as the most active recreational organisation in Gombak area. We are working hard to expand and venture seriously in sport climbing. Currently, being known as the fastest growing sport, such inclusion will serve as an alternative for the youth who wish to engage themselves in this kind of activity.

3) View point of the youth

Youth and recreational activities are inseparable. With the establishment of the centre, it will serve as the place of communion for youth, not only to enjoy wall climbing but also as a place for exchanging their minds and ideas.

Also, diversification of program is important for the youth where they may choose the preferable kind of activity based on their ability and interest.

4) Cost effectiveness

Every year the club organises various events like the National Iron Man Challenge, National Nuang Challenge and Climbing Carnival. In the mean time, the total of expenses we have spent for renting climbing facilities alone is about RM 15, 000.00. The club will continue to incur the unnecessary cost if we are to rent such facilities each time we organise the competitions.

The costs of renting the artificial climbing wall nowadays are very expensive:

Plywood artificial climbing wall RM 700 per day
Pyramide artificial climbing wall RM 1, 200 per day

5) Mass agreement by Gombak community

A survey conducted by the club had shown overwhelming support by the youth in this area to have climbing wall facilities within their vicinity. In general, 80 % of the youth in Gombak are interested to climb but due to the lack of facility, they have to forget their interest.

Primal Objectives

Centre for sport climbing

The club, being the leading recreational club in Gombak and at the inter-varsity level, must live up to its reputation. IIUM has already managed several competitions at national level such as National Iron Man Challenge 1995 and 1997, and National Mount Nuang Challenge 1994, 1995, 1996 and 1997 etc.

Moreover, university students should come up with the ideas of improving the society. This is one of our contributions to the people of Gombak especially to the young ones.

a- Centre for IPTA and IPTS.

IIUM is situated in a very strategic and practical location i.e. at the centre of the Peninsular Malaysia and near to Kuala Lumpur. It is the most convenient central meeting point for all IPTA and IPTS.

b- Centre for district of Gombak

The surrounding areas of the university provide a suitable atmosphere for recreational activities especially climbing. On the other hand, the plan of expanding the Gombak area to be an Islamic township points out that this area would become a hub for education, business, population and urbanisation.

The centre could provide the Gombak community with certain way of life that does not only emphasise on religious matters, but also for physical and mental aspects. Other than centre for sport climbing, they could also use other facilities provided on campus like the indoor & outdoor sport complexes, swimming pools, cyber café etc.

RECORDS IN SPORT CLIMBING

Adventure and Recreational Club, International Islamic University Malaysia is recognised as the most active club since 1993 till now. Several programs have been organised in terms of mountain climbing, white water rafting, canoeing, cycling, orienteering as well as wall climbing.

Our brief records in wall climbing can be referred to the list below:

1. RECREATIONAL MONTH OF IIUM 1995 - 'CLIMBING FOR EVERYONE'

It was organised by the club and Students Affairs and Development Division (STADD) IIUM at Petaling Jaya campus. An artificial climbing wall was brought for the first time to the campus. More than 250 students attempted the artificial wall. Participation from the public was also overwhelming.

2. THE FIRST IRON MAN CHALLENGE 1995 - THE FIRST IIUM OPEN
WALL CLIMBING COMPETITION 1995 (SPEED AND DIFFICULTY)

It was organised by the club and STADD IIUM at Bukit Cherakah, Shah Alam, Selangor. 89 expert climbers from Selangor, Wilayah Persekutuan, Melaka, Pahang and Perak including 12 IIUM students took part.

IIUM climbers secured the 3rd and 6th ranks in male category.

3. INTEGRATIONAL WALL CLIMBING COMPETITION 1996, UNIVERSITAS ANDALAS, SUMATRA ISLAND, INDONESIA

The friendly match was held between the club and MAPALA UNAND (Mahasiswa Pencinta Alam Universitas Andalas), Sumatra, Indonesia at Sumatra Island, Indonesia. It was held in conjunction with the Third IIUM Mount Kerinchi - Merapi and West Sumatra Exploration 1996. 22 climbers from IIUM and 18 from MAPALA UNAND took part.

4. NATURAL ROCK CLIMBING COURSE

It was organised by the club and STADD IIUM on October 1996 at Petronas Natural Rock-Climbing Site, Batu Cave, Gombak, Selangor. The instructors were from Twin Lizard Rock Gym. It took 3 days to finish the course.
13 IIUM students have been trained and certified as natural rock climbers.

5. THE SECOND NATIONAL IRON MAN CHALLENGE 1997 - THE SECOND IIUM OPEN WALL CLIMBING COMPETITION 1997 (SPEED AND DIFFICULTY)

It was organised by the club and STADD IIUM. More than 350 expert climbers from all over Peninsular Malaysia came to our campus to compete including the Commandos of Sungai Udang, Melaka and the Royal Police of Malaysia.

IIUM climbers won the 5th place in Open (Male) Category and 2nd in Inter-varsity (Male) Category.

6. D'ADVENTURE FOUR FIESTA 1997

It was organised by the club and STADD IIUM on April 1997 for four days. The First Open IIUM (Matriculation Centre) Wall Climbing Competition (Speed Climbing) was duly held.

The best male and female climbers were from IIUM.

7. BENSON & HEDGES GOLDEN DREAM LIVE X-GAMES 1997

It was organised by Benson & Hedges Malaysia at National Stadium, Kuala Lumpur.

One of IIUM students was ranked as the second best timer.

8. CLIMBING CARNIVAL 1997 - 'BREAK THE WALL'

It was organised by the club, STADD and Uthman College of IIUM in conjunction with IIUM 13th Convocation Fiesta 1997. More than 650 persons climbed the plywood artificial wall in the 5 days event. A competition was held on the last day of the Carnival.

IIUM climbers secured all the first 3 ranks and 6th rank in male category and first two ranks in female category. Both, best male and female climbers of the carnival were from IIUM.

9. KEM PENGGERAK REKREASI RAKAN MUDA SECTOR IPT

It was organised by the Ministry of Youth and Sports and Mountaineering Association of Malaysia (PMM) on 25 -29 March 1998. 40 persons from all universities in Malaysia attended the clinic. The theory classes were held at Templer Park, Rawang, Selangor while the practical took place at Bukit Takun, Rawang, Selangor.

On the last day, written and practical tests were conducted at Taman Tasik Perdana, Kuala Lumpur and Sarena House (PMM), Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur.

IIUM sent two participants. They have passed the test and been certified as instructors in basic sport climbing.

10. THE FIRST 'KARNIVAL REKREASI RAKAN MUDA IPT' 1998 - WALL CLIMBING COMPETITION

It was organised by the Ministry of Youth and Sports at Universiti Utara Malaysia. 120 climbers from all universities in Malaysia attended the carnival. 9 students from IIUM took part.

From 120 participants, 16 best climbers were selected in male category and 8 from female category. 5 of IIUM climbers won the good ranks - 1st, 5th and 9th in male individual category, and 3rd and 5th in female category. One of them was awarded as the best male climber of the carnival. We also won the first and third places in mixed team category.

11. OPEN UPM WALL CLIMBING COMPETITION 1998

It was organised by High Risk Adventure Team of UPM in conjunction with their Convocation Fiesta 1998.

IIUM students managed to win the first two places in male category and secured the second place in female category. The best male climber of the competition was an IIUM student.

12. DAILY WALL CLIMBING TRAINING SESSION

It is organised by the club at DBKL 'pyramide' Artificial Wall, Taman Tasik Perdana, Kuala Lumpur. The training is conducted here on Monday to Friday starting from November 1997. On every Saturday our climbers train at Sarena House (PMM), Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur and on every Sunday, the training is conducted at Batu Cave, Gombak, Selangor i.e. natural rock climbing.

Most of the club members are interested to join the training session but only few can regularly participate due to the problems stated below :

i - Transportation

From Gombak KL to Taman Tasik Perdana, Kuala Lumpur is almost 20km (i.e. 40km return route). Most of the climbers do not have their own vehicle. They go there by bus whose operations from IIUM campus to KL is often not properly scheduled. We also have problem to go to Sarena House and Batu Cave Natural Rock-Climbing Site due to the transportation problem.

ii - Time constraint

Classes normally end at 4.00 p.m. This is already the peak hour on road. They can only reach the location at about 5.30 p.m. The training normally ends at 7.00 p.m. The climbers reach back at campus at 9.00 p.m. restless of the travel (i.e. about 3.5 hours travel going and return). This is actually quite a burden because they have to study for tomorrow's lecture.

iii - Cost

The ticket fees is RM 1.20 x 2 (return) = RM 2.4 per day or RM 2.40 x 24 day = RM 54.60 per month not including extra costs such as for sport suits, climbing chalk, foods, drinks, climbing shoes, climbing suits and other things essential for the training. For students who make life out of their loan, this is quite expensive.

iv - Weather

It is a common phenomenon that after a long journey to Taman Tasik Perdana, we cannot climb due to the rain. This happens in many occasions.

v - Availability

The artificial wall belongs to Kuala Lumpur City Council for public use. Everybody go down there everyday. Other clubs such as PRIMA, Lorong Katak Active Team, Base Camp, Cosmopoint Adventure Club and some other climbing clubs are also using the same wall. Often, the routes are full and again we cannot climb.

Instead of all the circumstances, we never give up training but hoping that one day we will have our own artificial climbing wall, equipment and facility on campus for us, all IPTA/IPTS and for all Gombak community.

CLIMBING CONQUEST

ARTIFICIAL WALL CLIMBING

1. Youth and Sports Complex of Negeri Sembilan, Ampangan, Negeri Sembilan
pyramide
6 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6A

2. Youth and Sports Complex of Melaka, Bandar Melaka, Melaka
pyramide
10 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6B

3. Youth and Sports Complex of Selangor, Klang, Selangor
pyramide
9 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6C

4. Youth and Sports Complex of Perak, Ipoh, Perak
pyramide
6 panels height
roof climbing (90)
grade 6B

5. Youth and Sports Complex of Kedah, Alor Setar, Kedah
pyramide
6 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6B

6. DBKL Artificial Climbing Wall, Taman Tasik Perdana, Kuala Lumpur
pyramide
6 panels height
over-hang climbing (45o to 75o)
grade 7B

7. Sarena House (PMM), Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur
pyramide and plywood
10 panels height
roof climbing (90o)
grade 7B

8. Action '98 - Crux Adventure Company Exhibition, Lot 10, Kuala Lumpur
plywood
6 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6B

9. Basecamp Exhibition, Bangsar Shopping Complex, Kuala Lumpur
plywood
8 panels height
straight climbing
grade 7A

10. Benson and Hedges Golden Dreams Live X-Games, National Stadium, Kuala Lumpur
CCC artificial wall
20 panels height
overhang climbing (45o - 55o)
grade 7A

11. Malta Challenge, Kinta City, Ipoh, Perak
plywood
8 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6C

12. Malta Challenge, Mahkota Parade, Melaka
plywood
8 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6C

13. Malta Challenge, Subang Parade, Subang Jaya, Selangor
plywood
8 panels height
straight climbing
grade 6C

NATURAL ROCK CLIMBING

1. Gua Kelam, Perlis

2. Bukit Takun, Rawang, Selangor

3. Batu Caves, Gombak, Selangor
- Petronas Climbing Site
- Nanyang Climbing Site
- Red Rock Climbing Site